Glossary

- Rudi Gernreich (1922-1985) : Rudi Gernreich refers to the fashion designer who was born in 1922 in Vienna, Austria where he was raised by his father, a Hosiery manufacturer, and his aunt who kept a dress shop in which Gernreich worked as a teenager.

In 1938, with numerous other refugees, Gernreich fled to the United States and settled in California. From 1938 to 1941 he attended the Los Angeles City College and the following year studied at the Los Angeles Art Centre School. Working with a dance troupe as both a dancer and costume designer, he went on to do freelance fashion design in 1948 in New York.

In 1951, he formed a partnership with manufacturer Walter Bass to supply clothes to the Los Angeles boutique called Jax. However, he ultimately ended up opening his own company called G.R. Designs Inc. which was renamed Rudi Gernreich Inc. in 1964.

In the 50's Gernreich produced knitted swimwear without the usual boning and underpinning, later developing the concept into knitted tube dresses. Throughout the 60's he proved to be a competent and innovative designer of sportswear for the young market. He also made shirt-waist dresses in luxurious fabrics and reversible cape coats. The fashion contribution he is best known for is the topless bathing suit; with straps from a high waistband leaving the breasts open. The bathing suit, which he introduced in 1964 on his favorite model, Peggy Moffit, scandalized the world.

Moreover, Gernreich, ahead of his time, often used geometric patterns, narrow stripes and even introduced plastic fabrics in futuristic modes. One of his most innovative creations was the "no-bra" bra made of molded nylon cups attached to shoulder straps and a narrow elastic band encircling the rib cage. The unique design, cut low in the front with deep armholes, enabled women to wear it underneath deep decollete evening dresses.

Gernreich branched out on his own in 1958. After the highly constructed fashion of the 1950's, he led the trend toward a more youthful and body-liberating fashion and beginning the 1960's, he produced works emphaiszing the body itself. In 1964, his signature Monokini, a topless bathing suit caused a scandal. However, he continued to present works that strongly represented his new concept of the body the following years, like the 1965's "no-bra bras".

In the 70's, Gernreich produced unisex fashions that eliminated sexual differences. He also attempted to liberate the body by his own unique approach, ignoring conventional concepts despite many scandals along his way.

Gernreich died in 1985, and in 1991 his favorite model, Peggy Moffitt, and her husband published a book called "The Rudi Gernreich Book" detailing all the fashion ideas of Rudi Gernreich and his clothing.